Best Stretch Stitches for Knit Fabrics You Should Use (2024)

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Fabric, friends, comes in all shapes and forms. With your growing passion for fashion design, you’ll want to get familiar with knits and stretch materials. They drape differently than wovens, so you gotta treat ‘em special when sewing.

But no worries, girl, we got you covered! The key is choosing stitches with natural stretch and flexibility.

I’ll break down the best stitch for stretchy fabric on any home machine. From zigzags to decorative stitches, you’ll learn exactly when to use each for perfect seams and hems. With the right needles, threads, and settings, you’ll be sewing knits like a pro.

In no time, you’ll be rockin’ activewear, loungewear, even swimsuits made completely from scratch.

When sewing with stretchy knits, straight stitches just don’t cut it – literally. They’ll pop and break, leaving your seams a mess. We want stitches with natural stretch and flexibility, like those zigzags on your machine.

I’ll compare options from basic zigzags to decorative stitches, so you know exactly which ones work for seams, hems, and finishing. The right needles, threads, and settings are key, too. Follow my tips to avoid frustrating popped stitches.

With the best stitch for stretchy fabric, you’ll get professional results on your homemade activewear, loungewear, and anything made with jersey or spandex. Say bye to saggy seams and hello to garments that fit like a dream. Stretch fabrics are fun to work with, once you know how to treat them right.

Knit Stitches for Sewing Seams and General Construction

You’ll wanna go with a zigzag stitch for seams on stretchy knits since it has some give to allow the fabric to stretch and move.

When sewing knits, choose stitches that allow the fabric to flex rather than pop when stretched. A lightning bolt or stretch stitch works great for seams on thicker knits because it elongates as the fabric is pulled then retracts when released.

For lightweight, delicate knits, opt for a narrow zigzag or an overlock stitch to neatly finish seams that move with the fabric.

Do some test stitches before sewing your project to ensure the stitching has enough give for the particular knit fabric yet still holds the seam securely. Play around with stitch length and width too until you get the right balance of stretch and strength.

The right stitches make all the difference in creating garments with built-in comfort and flexibility.

Stitches for Hemming Knits

Check zigzag, lightning bolt, blind hem zigzag, overlock, and twin needle stitches for hemming knits. They’ve got the stretch and look you need. The zigzag stitch works wonders on lightweight knits, taking small bites to allow the hem to stretch.

The blind hem zigzag hides on the underside, with just tiny zigzags peeking from the right side. Style up those sleeve and skirt hems! For extra oomph, try a twin needle to lay parallel rows of zigzag.

Test on a scrap first, adjusting the stitch length and width. Adjust the tension if needed.

Ballpoint needles are crucial, gently separating the knit strands instead of punching through. Poly thread has inherent stretch. For ultrasoft hems, SoftLoc loopers combined with regular thread in the needle make magic.

Stitches for Finishing Knit Seams

Try an overlock stitch for finishing the seams of stretchy fabrics. This will allow the seam to stretch without popping stitches, thanks to multiple threads interlooping. Make sure to thread the loopers and needle correctly. Always do a test on scrap fabric, gently stretching as you sew.

Finger press the seams before finishing to distribute bulk. For a more reinforced overlock look, you can try a twin needle zigzag or narrow zigzag using a stretch needle. The straight stretch stitch is also great for medium to heavy knits, providing seam durability while maintaining stretch.

To ensure these stitches hug the curves without damage, use the right needle and thread combo. A walking foot will help feed bulky seams under the presser foot evenly. Overlock and zigzag stitches effortlessly elevate knitwear from homemade to professionally finished.

What Happens if I Just Use a Regular Straight Stitch for Sewing Knits?

You’re sewing with knits and wondering if you can get away with a basic straight stitch. While it may seem simpler, using a straight stitch on stretchy fabric is usually a bad idea that will cause popped seams or distortion in your project.

Types of Stretch Fabrics

While stitching knits, know how the fabric’s grain stretches before cutting to ensure the pieces move with your body.

• Knits have rows of loops with crosswise and lengthwise stretch. Watch for one-way stretch knits!
• Woven fabrics like spandex and lace have elastane fibers woven in for multidirectional stretch.
• Cut woven fabrics on the bias for added flexibility through seams and hems. Test first!

Why Use Stretchy Fabrics for Your Sewing Projects

You’d find your seams popping when your creation stretches if you use a regular straight stitch on knits. Stretchy fabrics like spandex blends and jersey knits beg to move. Let them flow with the body by picking stitches that stretch too.

Zigzag, lightning bolt, even a twin needle – they’ll keep seams secure through wear without restricting comfortable movement. Your easy knit pieces will feel like custom couture when you match the flexibility of thread and fabric.

What is a Stretch Stitch?

You’ll enjoy the lightning bolt stretch stitch when sewing knits for its ability to elongate with the fabric. This versatile stitch allows the knit to stretch and retract without popping seams. Use it for hems, necklines, sleeves, and side seams on t-shirts, activewear, and comfy loungewear.

When sewing, remember to 1) use polyester thread, 2) relax your shoulders, 3) go slow, 4) press as you go, and 5) smile with each new creation. The lightning bolt stitch effortlessly handles the movement of knits. Embrace its magic as you sew and watch your knit pieces come to life.

What Are Some Types of Stretch Stitches on a Sewing Machine?

Dear fashionable friend, there are many types of stretch stitches you can use for knits and stretchy fabrics. The most popular options include the lightning stitch, triple straight stitch, zigzag stitch, 3-step zigzag stitch, 2-step zigzag stitch, knit stitch, stretch buttonhole stitch, blind hem stretch stitch, straight stitch, honeycomb stitch, feather stretch stitches, and picot hems – each providing a different look and level of stretch to support your stretchy sewing projects beautifully.

Lightning Stitch

You can use the lightning stitch on your machine for thicker knits since it allows the fabric to stretch and retract. This versatile stitch takes bites of the fabric to allow optimal stretch and recovery.

Adjust the stitch length and width to suit your fabric weight. Test on scraps first to optimize the settings.

Seam Allowance	2/3 to 1 inch
Stitch Length	3-5mm
Stitch Width	3-5mm

Triple Straight Stitch (aka Stretch Stitch)

The triple straight stitch ain’t playing around – it truly allows knits to stretch without popping. This specialized stitch is like a standard straight stitch on steroids. Adjust your manual feed so the holes between stitches can gape wide open as fabric stretches.

With proper fabric prep and zigzag tension tricks, the triple straight seam won’t restrict your style.

Zigzag Stitch

A zigzag stitch with some give lets you sew up lingerie or activewear with ease. Choose a medium-width zigzag and a shorter stitch length for knits. The needle size affects the stitch quality, so use a stretch or ballpoint needle for smooth stitches.

Test on scraps first to find the perfect balance of flexibility and stability when sewing knits with a zigzag stitch.

3. Step Zigzag Stitch (or Tricot Stitch)

Have a ball playing with the 3-step zigzag stitch on your sewing machine. It’s perfect for stretch fabrics because it elongates as the fabric stretches. Test this stitch out on a stretch fabric swatch first to adjust tension and stitch height before hemming a stretchy knit skirt.

Adjusting tension prevents puckering, and a higher stitch height allows the thread more space to stretch without breaking.

2. step Zigzag Stitch

A 2-step zigzag stitch will mimic a cover stitch on your sewing machine, allowing layered knits to stretch smoothly. Take smaller bites into fabrics between layers with a narrower zigzag. Avoid overly wide stitches that may snag or skip decoration.

Create custom elastic seams by matching needle size to thread. Let the feed dogs do the work – don’t pull or stretch the fabric as you sew.

Knit Stitch

Use the knit stitch when sewing stretchy fabrics for maximum flexibility. This narrow zigzag takes small bites of fabric to allow full stretch and recovery. Set a moderate stitch length and width for stable seams that won’t pop. Choose a stretch or ballpoint needle so the point slides between yarns rather than piercing them.

Adjust tension so the zigzag appears balanced without puckering fabric. Experiment on scraps first to ensure perfect stitch formation before sewing your project.

Stretch Buttonhole Stitch

You pop out your stretch buttonholes with skips and leaps like a dancer jumping between circles. These high-energy stitches allow meandering buttonholes that follow your active lifestyle and billowing knit designs.

Carefully mark button placement and baste lines first for perfect positioning. Lengthen and widen buttonhole width for extra wiggle room. Examine tension and recut holes if needed. Your garments will move freely with you when liberated by stretch buttonholes.

Blind Hem Stretch Stitch

Try pressing seams before finishing on heavy knits to flatten and reduce bulk for a better blind hem stitch over the thick seam. When blind hemming knits, choose a thread tension that takes small bites through just the knit’s surface strands.

Understitch knit seams to keep layers together for clean blind hemming along the edge. For thick knits, a blind hem’s zigzag can miss catching the lower layer, so topstitch first. With practice, you’ll master blind hemming knits for invisible, stretchy finishes.

Straight Stitch

The straight stitch offers no give, so your project may look like an over-inflated balloon ready to pop when the stretchy fabric extends.

1. Use straight stitch for stabilized areas like collars or waistbands.
2. Reserve for quilting lightweight knits.
3. Okay for joining non-stretch woven seams.
4. Avoid on garment seams or active areas.

Rather than locking your soft fabric in place, allow some freedom of movement with zigzag or lightning bolt stitches. Follow elasticity guidelines for fabrics with Lycra or spandex. On ultra lightweight knits, match thread color to prevent show through.

Honeycomb or Smoking Stitch

That honeycomb stitch adds texture and stretch to your knit pieces.

Lightweight Knits	Heavier Knits
Scarves	Sweaters
Dresses	Jackets
Blouses	Pants
Skirts	Coats

The elongated zigzag of the honeycomb stitch allows lightweight knits to move with you while maintaining shape. It’s smoother than a straight stitch yet provides more gathering than a lightning bolt. Use it when you want a tailored look for your dresses, blouses, and skirts. It rivals the professional finish of overlock stitches without the specialized equipment.

Feather Stretch Stitches

You’ll find feather stretch stitches work wonders on lingerie and swim fabrics, reducing bulk by 50% compared to a straight stitch while still allowing full stretch.

1. Test on scraps first to check stretch compatibility.
2. Lengthen the stitch for more give on high-stretch fabrics.
3. Play with a twin needle for pretty parallel rows.

Feather stitches open up possibilities for decorative effects on silky, slinky knits while maintaining the integrity of the fabric. Their elongated zigzags allow the right amount of give for your delicate fabrics.

Picot Hems

Give lightweight knits a professional finish with a picot hem stitch. Use a narrow zigzag and loosely tensioned thread to create an elegant scalloped edge. Experiment with thread colors that accent or match your fabric. Insert a lightweight hem foot to glide along the fabric edge.

Let the feed dogs move the knit so the stitches don’t distort the weave. Picot hems add flair to feminine styles and athleisure wear when you want a hem with flair.

What Can I Use if My Machine Doesn’t Have Any Special Stretch Stitches?

Honey, even if your machine is missing those fancy stretch stitches, don’t fret. You can still sew knits beautifully. Simply rely on your trusty zigzag. Lengthen the stitch a tad and widen the width for extra give.

Be sure you’re using the right tools – polyester thread and a ballpoint needle are key. And remember to play with tension. Knits need a balanced tension, not too tight or loose.

Once dialed in, your machine’s basic zigzag will perform just as well as those lightning bolts and waves. With the right combo, that humble ziggy will see you through any slinky knit project.

Is It Enough to Use the Special Stretch Stitch for Knits or Do I Need Special Needles and Threads?

When working with stretchy knits, you’ll want to use the right tools to get professional results. Opt for stretch or ballpoint needles that glide between the fabric’s fibers, and polyester or woolly nylon threads that stretch and recover along with the garment.

Best Needles for Sewing Stretchy Fabric

Using stretch or ballpoint needles is essential when sewing knits so the needle glides between the fibers without piercing them, preventing runs.

1. Use a ballpoint/stretch needle size 70-90 for lightweight knits like jersey.
2. Use size 80-110 ballpoint needles for medium knits like interlock or fleece.
3. Use size 90-120 needles for heavy sweatshirt fleece and sweater knits.
4. Check the manual for recommended needles for your machine.
5. Change the needle every 4-6 hours of sewing knits.

The right needle helps your machine happily digest all the luscious knits in your fabric stash.

Best Type of Thread for Sewing Stretch Fabric

You’ll love how polyester thread, like Designer 40wt, moves with knits without breaking. Polyester thread has more give and strength than cotton. Adjust your tension so stitches don’t pucker. Use multiple rows of zigzag or decorative stitches to reinforce seams. Test on scraps first.

Can I Learn How to Sew With Stretchy Fabrics With My Home Sewing Machine?

Hello there! When working with stretchy fabrics, your home sewing machine can absolutely help you achieve professional finishes. From selecting the best needles and threads to knowing which stitches handle elasticity with ease, we’ve got hot tips tailored for stretch.

Hot Tips for Working With Elastic Fabric

Darling, grab those fabrics and make them sing with zigzagging seams and bouncy hems; a lightning bolt stitch will let knits move while gentle needles part strands instead of punching holes. Wait before cutting, iron wrong sides, use tissue when needed, pins prevent holes, and wash gently to retain shape.

5 Main Tricks to Knowing How to Sew Elastic Fabric

Forget old notions of tricky elastic fabrics. ‘Cause now you can tap into innovative stitch types that sculpt with your fabric’s natural stretch and flow. Let the stretch percentage guide your stitch choice. Test fabric recovery before cutting.

Mind the direction, keep right sides together. Finish edges with zigzag or serger.

5 Best Stitches and Sewing Machine Settings for Sewing Stretch Fabric

There are a few handy stitches and settings to try when sewing stretch fabrics on your machine.

1. Use a zigzag stitch for seams and hems. Adjust the width and length to suit your fabric.
2. Try a lightning bolt or stretch stitch. Great for activewear with thicker knits.
3. A narrow zigzag works nicely as a blind hem on lingerie or fancy knits.
4. An overlock stitch finishes seams smoothly without a serger.

Test out stitch options on scraps first before sewing your garment. Finding the right settings takes experimenting, but it’s worth it for professional results!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)