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Your first jersey knit project probably ended with wavy hems, stretched-out necklines, or seams that popped the moment you pulled the fabric. Knits move, stretch, and behave nothing like woven fabrics, which means your standard sewing setup won’t cut it.
The good news? Once you understand how knit fabrics work and grab the right tools, you’ll breeze through T-shirts, leggings, and cozy sweaters with clean, professional results.
Sewing with knit fabrics requires specific needles, stitches, and techniques that work with the fabric’s stretch instead of fighting it.
Table Of Contents
Key Takeaways
- Knit fabrics stretch and move differently than woven materials, so you’ll need ballpoint needles (sizes 70/10 to 90/14), polyester thread, and zigzag or stretch stitches that flex with the fabric instead of breaking.
- Prewash your knits before cutting to prevent shrinkage, use a rotary cutter with pattern weights for clean edges, and align your pattern pieces parallel to the lengthwise grain (the vertical V-shaped loops) to avoid twisted seams.
- A walking foot transforms knit sewing by gripping both fabric layers simultaneously and preventing shifting, while twin needles create professional-looking hems with parallel topstitching and a stretchy zigzag underneath.
- You don’t need a serger to finish knit seams professionally—just lower your presser foot pressure for lightweight jerseys, use a narrow zigzag along raw edges, and test your machine settings on scraps before sewing your actual project.
Essential Knit Fabric Properties for Sewing
You can’t just grab any knit fabric and expect your project to work out. The fabric itself has specific properties that make or break your finished garment.
Understanding fabric weight, stretch percentage, and fiber content helps you match the right material to your sewing goals.
Let’s look at what you need to know before you cut that first piece.
Types of Knit Fabrics
You’ll find five main knit fabric types on your sewing journey.
Jersey fabric offers that soft, everyday stretch for T-shirts and dresses. Rib knits bounce back quickly, perfect for cuffs and collars. Interlock knit gives you structure without stiffness.
Purl knit adds cozy texture with its bumpy surface. Double knit layers two fabrics together for warmth and shape retention in structured garments.
To better understand their differences, explore these key knitted fabric types used in the textile industry.
Stretch Percentage and Recovery
Beyond fabric type, stretch percentage tells you how far your knit moves—most cotton jerseys stretch 25 to 35 percent lengthwise. But stretch recovery matters more. That’s your fabric’s ability to snap back after you pull it. Elastane blends recover nearly 100 percent, while pure cotton takes longer and may sag with repeated wear.
Stretch recovery—how fast your knit snaps back—matters more than how far it stretches in the first place
- Spandex blends offer near-complete recovery, preventing garment sag
- Cotton-rich knits recover 70 to 90 percent after initial relaxation
- Tight gauge stitches show lower stretch but faster recovery
- Simple hand-pull tests reveal recovery within 5 to 10 seconds
Fabric Weight and Fiber Content
Fabric weight—measured in grams per square meter or ounces per yard—shapes how your knit behaves. Light jerseys under 180 gsm drape softly for tees, while medium fabrics between 180 and 260 gsm suit dresses.
Fiber content matters just as much. Cotton blends breathe, polyester resists pilling, and spandex boosts stretch recovery.
Together, weight and fiber blends define your material selection and final garment properties. For deeper insight into these concepts, see this guide on fabric weight basics and categories.
Grainline and Selvedge in Knits
Once you understand weight and fiber, grainline becomes your next tool for fabric stability. The lengthwise grain runs along the wales—those vertical V-shaped loops—and you’ll align your pattern pieces parallel to it. Selvedge edge in knits often curls or fades after washing, so here’s what to check:
- Look for wales to identify grain alignment and stretch direction
- Match pattern arrows to the lengthwise grain for consistent fit
- Pull the fabric lightly—cross grain stretches most, lengthwise stays stable
Proper grain alignment prevents twisted seams and wavy hems when sewing with knits.
Must-Have Tools for Sewing Knit Fabrics
The right tools make all the difference when you’re working with knit fabrics. Without them, you’ll fight stretched seams, skipped stitches, and wavy edges at every turn.
Here’s what you need in your sewing kit to handle knits like a pro.
Rotary Cutter and Cutting Mat
You’ll want a 45mm rotary cutter and a self-healing cutting mat with grid lines for preparing and cutting knit fabric accurately. The mat features inch increments that help you line up your pattern perfectly, while pattern weights keep everything stable.
Replace the blade when it dulls, and always engage the safety lock between cuts. These cutting accessories make cutting out the pattern straightforward and precise.
Sewing Machine Needles for Knits
The right needle types make all the difference between smooth seams and fabric damage. Match your sewing machine needle selection to your knit:
- Ball point needle (sizes 75/11 to 90/14) for jerseys and interlocks—nudges fibers apart without cutting
- Stretch needle (70/10 to 90/14) for high-elasticity fabrics like spandex and swimwear
- Twin ballpoint needle for professional hems with parallel stitches
- Replace needles every 2–3 projects to prevent skipped stitches
Choosing The Right Thread
Thread materials determine whether your seams stretch or snap. Polyester delivers strong elasticity for knits up to 50 percent recovery, while cotton thread breathes beautifully but needs prewashing.
For stretch thread performance, choose a 40-weight polyester or core-spun blend on most jerseys. Colorfast polyester withstands frequent washing on active wear.
Test all-purpose thread on scrap swatches—dark knits reveal lint fast.
Walking Foot and Its Benefits
A walking foot transforms sewing with knits by gripping both layers simultaneously as fabric feeds through your machine. Two synchronized feed dogs prevent shifting while you stitch, maintaining even pressure across bulky jerseys and interlock knits without manual fussing.
- Fabric feeding stays controlled through dual friction-driven feed dogs moving top and bottom layers together
- Stitch quality improves dramatically with straighter seams and fewer skipped stitches on stretch fabric
- Foot mechanism distributes pressure evenly across the wider, flat surface to prevent bunching at the needle
- Sewing control becomes seamless on curved edges and multiple layers without mid-seam adjustments
- Machine compatibility works with standard presser foot adapters and zigzag or stretch stitches
Preparing and Cutting Knit Fabrics
Getting your knit fabric ready to sew can make or break your whole project. A few simple prep steps will save you from wonky seams and stretched-out disasters later.
Here’s how to handle your knits from the moment they come off the bolt to the first cut.
Prewashing and Shrinkage
Before you cut into that beautiful knit, you’ll want to preshrink it using the same washing method you’ll use for the finished garment. Prepping the fabric prevents unwanted shrinkage later and helps maintain stretch recovery. Cotton knits shrink more than synthetic blends, so fabric preparation really matters for proper fit.
| Fabric Type | Expected Shrinkage | Prewash Method |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton knits | 5-8% | Warm water, tumble dry |
| Rayon blends | 3-5% | Cool water, low heat |
| Polyester knits | 1-3% | Any temperature safe |
Test a small swatch first to see how your fabric behaves. Measure before and after washing to calculate shrinkage percentage—this lets you adjust your pattern pieces if needed. Fabric relaxation during the first wash reveals the true properties of your material, so don’t skip this step even when you’re excited to start sewing.
Ironing and Removing Wrinkles
After prewashing, smooth wrinkles before cutting by using steam ironing on a quality ironing board. Set your iron temperature based on fiber content—synthetics need less heat than cotton blends. Apply a medium steam setting for fabric relaxation and effective wrinkle removal. Use steaming techniques like a vertical burst for hanging garments.
This fabric preparation step ensures accurate pattern placement and cleaner sewing tips.
Accurate Cutting Techniques
Once your fabric’s smooth, lay it flat on a cutting mat with the fabric grain aligned straight. Use a sharp rotary cutter and steady pressure for cutting precision—dull blades wreck edge finishing.
Apply pattern weights instead of pins to avoid fabric manipulation. Cut along pattern lines in smooth strokes, keeping blade maintenance top of mind.
These cutting mat tips make prepping the fabric and cutting out the pattern way easier.
Preventing Fabric Distortion
Your cutting technique sets you up, but fabric tension during handling makes or breaks edge stability. Knits shift easily, so grain control and stretch management matter from the start. Here’s your distortion prevention checklist:
- Keep fabric flat and relaxed on the mat—no pulling or repositioning that skews the grain
- Use lightweight stabilizers along hems and necklines on slippery stretch fabrics
- Stay stitch edges right after cutting to lock fibers before construction
Gentle fabric manipulation preserves your work.
Best Sewing Techniques for Knit Fabrics
Getting your stitches right makes all the difference when you’re working with knit fabrics. The good news is that you don’t need fancy equipment to get professional results—just a few smart adjustments to your machine and technique.
Let’s walk through the key methods that’ll help you sew knits without puckering, skipped stitches, or wavy seams.
Selecting Stretch Stitches and Seam Types
You need stitches that move with your fabric. A zigzag stitch offers seam stretch by allowing 25 percent or more give, preventing thread breakage when the fabric recovery kicks in. Try a three-step zigzag for elastic seams that stay stable.
For seam finishing on stretch fabrics, narrow zigzag or overlock stitches keep edges clean while your sewing techniques maintain proper stitch balance across knit finishing.
Using Twin Needles and Hemming Methods
Your hem game changes with a twin needle. This tool creates two parallel top stitches while forming a zigzag underneath, giving you stretch recovery without fabric distortion.
Here’s how to nail hemming techniques for sewing knit fabric:
- Press your hem allowance flat before stitching to avoid tunneling
- Loosen your top thread tension slightly for balanced stretch stitch formation
- Test sewing machine settings on scraps first to prevent thread nests
The result looks store-bought professional.
Adjusting Foot Pressure and Machine Settings
Your sewing machine pressure dial lives near the needle plate or side panel. Lower it for lightweight jerseys so you don’t stretch them wavy, and bump it up for thicker ponte or double knits. Adjust foot pressure in half-unit steps and test on scraps first.
Pair that with a 2.5–3.0 mm stitch length and balanced tension control to let your fabric move without puckering.
Finishing Seams Without a Serger
You don’t need a serger to get professional results on knits. Try these seam finishing methods instead:
- Zigzag stitch along raw edges to seal and prevent fraying
- Turned hems that fold the edge under 1/8 inch, then topstitch close to the fold
- Bound seams using narrow fabric strips for a clean, enclosed finish
Flat felling and narrow zigzag stitches work beautifully as overlock alternatives for fabric stabilization methods when sewing with knits.
Top 7 Products for Sewing With Knit Fabrics
Having the right tools makes sewing knit fabrics so much easier. You don’t need to buy everything at once, but certain products will save you time and frustration.
Here are seven items that will help you get professional results with your knit projects.
1. Omnigrid Quilting Ruler
You mightn’t expect a quilting ruler to be your secret weapon for cutting knits, but the Omnigrid 6″ x 24″ ruler makes precision cuts a breeze. Its non-slip backing grips stretchy fabric firmly so it won’t shift mid-cut.
The clear acrylic construction lets you see your fabric underneath, while neon green lines give you crystal-clear visibility. With markings down to 1/8″, you’ll nail those seam allowances every time. The 45° angle lines are perfect for cutting bias strips too.
| Best For | Quilters and crafters who need precise measurements for small cuts, patchwork pieces, and bias strips on both woven and stretchy fabrics. |
|---|---|
| Primary Use | Quilting & Sewing |
| Brand | Omnigrid |
| Material Type | Plastic |
| Skill Level | All Levels |
| Weight | N/A |
| Compatibility | Universal |
| Additional Features |
|
- Non-slip backing keeps the ruler stable even on stretchy knits and slippery fabrics
- Clear acrylic with bright neon green lines makes it easy to see your fabric and measurements at the same time
- Markings down to 1/8″ and 45° angle lines give you the accuracy you need for seam allowances and bias cuts
- Only shows measurements in inches, so it won’t work if you prefer metric
- Some users report the ruler can still shift during use despite the non-slip backing
- Quality control issues mean you might receive a damaged product
2. Ball Point Jersey Sewing Machine Needles
Once you switch to ball point needles, you’ll wonder how you ever sewed jerseys without them. The rounded tip glides between fabric fibers instead of piercing through them, preventing those frustrating runs and skipped stitches.
Euro-Notions offers a reliable 5-pack in size 70/10 that works beautifully on lightweight jerseys, t-shirt material, and even bathing suits. They fit most home machines using the standard 130/705 H system.
For medium weight knits, grab an 80/12 size instead—your seams will thank you.
| Best For | Home sewers working with jersey, t-shirt fabric, and lightweight knits who want to avoid snags and skipped stitches. |
|---|---|
| Primary Use | Knit Fabrics |
| Brand | Euro-Notions |
| Material Type | Metal |
| Skill Level | All Levels |
| Weight | 0.2 oz |
| Compatibility | Standard Machines |
| Additional Features |
|
- Ball point tip slides between fibers instead of piercing them, preventing runs in delicate knits
- Size 70/10 works perfectly for lightweight jerseys and t-shirt quilts
- Comes in a convenient 5-pack that fits standard home sewing machines
- Not suitable for woven fabrics or heavy-duty projects
- May need to size up to 80/12 for medium-weight knits
- At least one customer reported receiving the wrong needle type in their package
3. Schmetz Stretch Sewing Machine Needles
When you’re wrestling with fabrics that have serious stretch—think athletic wear with spandex or recovery garments—regular needles just won’t cut it.
Schmetz Stretch needles have a deeper scarf and medium ball point designed specifically for highly elastic knits. The smaller eye reduces thread friction, preventing those maddening skipped stitches that make you want to throw your project across the room.
Available in sizes like 75/11 and 90/14, they handle nylon blends and swimwear like champions, keeping your seams smooth on even the stretchiest fabrics.
| Best For | Sewers working with stretchy fabrics like athletic wear, swimwear, or anything with spandex who need consistent stitches without skipping. |
|---|---|
| Primary Use | Stretch Fabrics |
| Brand | Schmetz |
| Material Type | Metal |
| Skill Level | All Levels |
| Weight | N/A |
| Compatibility | Domestic Machines |
| Additional Features |
|
- Deeper scarf and medium ball point prevent skipped stitches on highly elastic materials
- Works beautifully on challenging fabrics like nylon blends and swimwear
- Smaller eye reduces thread friction for smoother sewing on stretchy knits
- Needs replacement after about 10 hours of sewing to maintain performance
- Not designed for heavy-duty or industrial machines
- May be hard to find in local stores, so you’ll likely need to order online
4. SCHMETZ Twin Stretch Machine Needle
If you want your knit hems to look like they came from a store, you need a twin stretch needle. This clever tool mounts two stretch needles on one shank, creating two parallel rows of topstitching while the bobbin thread zigzags underneath for stretch.
The SCHMETZ Twin Stretch (size 2.5/75) mimics a coverstitch machine without the expense, perfect for t-shirt hems and activewear.
Just remember these needles are thin—they’ll handle jersey beautifully but can snap on heavier fabrics.
| Best For | Sewers who want professional-looking double-needle hems on knit fabrics like t-shirts and activewear without investing in a coverstitch machine. |
|---|---|
| Primary Use | Topstitching |
| Brand | SCHMETZ |
| Material Type | Metal |
| Skill Level | Intermediate |
| Weight | 0.16 oz |
| Compatibility | Standard Machines |
| Additional Features |
|
- Creates two parallel rows of stitching with a stretchy zigzag underneath that moves with knit fabrics
- Extra-large eye and groove make threading topstitch thread much easier
- Affordable way to get store-quality hems on homemade garments
- Needles are thin and can break easily, especially if you’re not careful
- Not strong enough for heavy-duty sewing or thick fabrics
- Some users report bending or snapping issues, and customer service for defects may be lacking
5. Fiskars Rotary Cutter Set
You can’t hem knits without first cutting them cleanly, and that’s where the Fiskars Rotary Cutter Set earns its spot. This kit gives you a 45mm blade that slices through multiple fabric layers without the jagged edges scissors leave behind.
The 18 by 24 inch self-healing mat protects your table while its grid lines keep cuts straight, and the 6.5 by 24 inch clear ruler lets you see exactly what you’re measuring. The ambidextrous handle works for lefties and righties alike.
| Best For | Quilters, sewers, and crafters who need to cut multiple layers of fabric cleanly without fraying or jagged edges. |
|---|---|
| Primary Use | Fabric Cutting |
| Brand | Fiskars |
| Material Type | Acrylic |
| Skill Level | Beginner-Friendly |
| Weight | 3.38 lbs |
| Compatibility | Universal |
| Additional Features |
|
- 45mm rotary blade cuts through multiple fabric layers smoothly and reduces fraying
- Large 18 x 24 inch self-healing mat with grid lines keeps cuts straight and accurate
- Clear ruler with highlighted seam allowances makes measuring easy and visible
- Blade needs periodic replacement to stay sharp
- Mat is thinner than some competing brands
- Ruler only shows inch measurements, no millimeters
6. Even Feed Walking Sewing Foot with Quilt Guide
Once your knit fabric is cut, keeping those stretchy layers from shifting under the needle becomes your next challenge. That’s where the Gsiartvill Even Feed Walking Foot with Quilt Guide steps in.
This metal attachment grips the top layer while your machine feeds from below, so multiple knit layers move at the same pace without bunching. The adjustable guide bar keeps your seams parallel, and it works with most low shank machines like Brother, Singer, and Janome models.
| Best For | Quilters and sewers working with knits, multiple fabric layers, or matching patterns who need precise feeding and parallel seam spacing. |
|---|---|
| Primary Use | Quilting |
| Brand | Gsiartvill |
| Material Type | Metal/Plastic |
| Skill Level | All Levels |
| Weight | 1.94 oz |
| Compatibility | Low Shank Machines |
| Additional Features |
|
- Keeps stretchy or slippery fabrics from shifting by feeding top and bottom layers evenly
- Includes adjustable quilt guide for maintaining consistent seam spacing on parallel rows
- Compatible with most low shank domestic machines like Brother, Singer, and Janome
- Struggles with very thick or uneven fabric stacks
- Some users report durability issues with the foot breaking or loosening during use
- May require slower sewing speeds and frequent adjustments while working
7. HeatnBond Soft Stretch Adhesive Tape
After you’ve sewn your seams with the walking foot, finishing those hems can still be tricky. HeatnBond Soft Stretch Adhesive Tape gives you a no-sew option that moves with your fabric.
This 5/8 inch tape works on jersey, spandex, and fleece without adding stiffness or gumming up your needle. Just press it between fabric layers with a hot iron, and you get a permanent bond that’s machine washable.
The Lite version stays sewable if you want extra security on garment edges.
| Best For | Sewers working with knits, jersey, and stretch fabrics who want clean, flexible hems without the bulk or need for a serger. |
|---|---|
| Primary Use | Stretch Hems |
| Brand | HeatnBond |
| Material Type | Fabric |
| Skill Level | All Levels |
| Weight | 0.8 oz |
| Compatibility | Universal |
| Additional Features |
|
- Bonds permanently while keeping fabric soft and stretchy—no stiffness on hems
- Works as a no-sew solution or can be sewn through without gumming up your needle
- Machine washable and holds up well on spandex, fleece, and other tricky stretch materials
- May not grip well on all fabric types, especially for securing patches or heavy-duty applications
- Can add slight stiffness when layered or used on thick, ribbed fabrics
- Requires precise iron application and following instructions closely for best results
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Can you sew knit fabric on a regular sewing machine?
Thinking knits need a serger is a common myth. You can absolutely sew them on a regular machine. Just switch to a ball point needle size 70/10 or 80/12 and use a zigzag stitch.
Is it difficult to sew with knit fabric?
It’s not difficult once you understand stretch and recovery. The learning curve involves choosing the right needle, adjusting your machine settings, and not pulling fabric while you sew.
What is the best stitch for knit fabric?
When you stretch your favorite hoodie, the seams flex with you instead of snapping.
A narrow zigzag stitch mimics that give—set your machine to 0–5 mm length and 5–5 mm width for knits.
What tension should a sewing machine be at for knit fabric?
Set your top tension so stitches sit in the fabric’s middle without puckering. Start at mid-range, then adjust in tiny increments—5 to 1 unit at a time—until both sides look balanced.
What is the best stitch for knit fabrics?
Like a dancer needs room to move, knit seams need stretch. Your best bet is a narrow zigzag or stretch stitch—they flex with the fabric without snapping threads or skipping stitches.
Is knit fabric hard to sew?
Knit fabric isn’t hard to sew once you understand its properties. You just need the right needle, a stretch stitch, and a little practice to handle its stretchy nature confidently.
Is there a trick to sewing stretchy fabric?
Yes—use a ballpoint needle and polyester thread, then choose a zigzag or stretch stitch. Don’t pull the fabric as you sew; let the feed dogs move it naturally to prevent wavy seams.
How do I prevent knit fabric from rippling?
Think of fabric as a tightrope walker—tension throws everything off balance.
You’ll prevent rippling by switching to a zigzag stitch, using a walking foot, and reducing your machine’s presser foot pressure.
Whats the best way to finish knit seams?
You’ll want to use a zigzag stitch or serger to keep seams stretchy and prevent fraying. Twin needle hems create a professional finish, while narrow zigzag works perfectly without a serger.
Can I alter ready-to-wear knit garments?
You can definitely alter ready-to-wear knits. Simple adjustments like shortening sleeves or taking in side seams work great. Just use a ballpoint needle and stretch stitches to maintain that essential give.
Conclusion
Think of sewing with knit fabrics like learning to ride a bike—wobbly at first, but once you’ve got the balance between needle choice, stitch settings, and gentle handling, it becomes second nature.
Your ballpoint needles prevent snags, your walking foot keeps layers aligned, and your stretch stitches move with the fabric instead of breaking.
With these seven products and techniques in your toolkit, you’ll transform stretchy fabrics into polished, wearable pieces every single time.
- https://blog.megannielsen.com/2015/08/how-to-calculate-stretch-percentage/
- https://www.seamwork.com/sewing-tutorials/coverstitch-machines?srsltid=AfmBOoqv8BhSgKK54a37SNLoW29unacI0OMTGhext9YhV6M57KYuR_fg
- https://www.wawak.com/Sewing/Needles/Home-Machine/schmetz-stretch-ball-point-home-machine-needles-5pack/?sku=SMNSB15111
- https://myomnigrid.com
- https://www.ebay.com/itm/305949623258
