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How to Properly Apply Sew-in Interfacing Full Guide of 2023

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how to apply sew in interfacingJust stir your bobbins and prepare yer thimbles, sewists! I’m here to show ya how to properly apply old-fashioned sew-in interfacing. Ya see, this vintage technique adds sturdiness without any newfangled fusions. Simply stitchin’ interfacing to yer fabric’s flipside shapes collars, strengthens waistbands, and supports cuffs without compromisin’ the fabric’s integrity when washed.

So grab yer patterns and snug down that stitch length. We’ll walk through matchin’ yer fabrics and interfacings so even beginners can achieve crisp finishes. With traditional sew-in methods, you’ll unlock expert skills and uncover time-tested tips.

So let’s rev up those sewing machines and master this classic technique together, sewists – the satisfaction will be sewn-sational!

Key Takeaways

  • Sew-in interfacing enhances the stability and structure of vintage-style garments.
  • Choose between non-fusible and fusible interfacing based on your requirements.
  • Stitch sew-in interfacing on the fabric’s flipside for collars, cuffs, and waistbands.
  • Match the weight of the interfacing to the fabric of the garment for appropriate support.

Understanding Interfacing Types

Understanding Interfacing Types
You’ll want to know the difference between non-fusible and fusible interfacing before attaching it. Non-fusible sew-in interfacing requires sewing for attachment. It allows for easier shaping into curves and stiffening small sections without bulk.

Non-fusible prevents fabric stretching while providing a clean finish. Fusible interfacing sticks directly to the fabric. It stiffens larger sections quickly without sewing. Consider your project’s needs when choosing between non-fusible and fusible sew-in interfacing.

Pick non-woven for lightweight shaping. Select non-fusible to prevent stretching on curved seams. Fusible suits stiffening larger flat sections. Compare properties to achieve your desired shaping and support.

Preparing Fabric and Interfacing

Preparing Fabric and Interfacing
After cutting your fabric and interfacing pieces to the same size, carefully pin the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric, aligning the raw edges. Ensure the grainlines match perfectly and cut all pieces on the same angle. Use a pinning technique to avoid distorting the fabric.

Place pins perpendicular to the raw edges rather than on the bias. This stabilizes the seam so it doesn’t stretch or wave while stitching.

For an undercollar, apply a layer of sew-in interfacing to provide structure. Match the interfacing’s weave and weight to the fashion fabric. Once pinned, iron the pieces if needed to set the pins. With the collar pieces stabilized and aligned, you’ll achieve crisp edges that retain their shape through the understitching application.

Stitching Process

Stitching Process
You can select a shorter seam allowance and stitch the interfacing to the fabric like ants to a picnic. Take care to align the raw edges before piercing the layers with your needle’s point. Once the layers are aligned and pinned, you’ll want to stitch using your preferred seam type and thread.

For non-fusible interfacing, a straight stitch is typically used, while a zigzag stitch can allow some stretch on curved edges. Choose a universal or sharp needle to pierce the layers without snagging. As you stitch, gently guide the fabric to keep things smooth.

For collars, cuffs, waistbands, and other areas needing support, a 1/4 seam allowance usually suffices. Just make sure your fabric stitching seam crosses over the interfacing seam for stability.

With some practice sewing in interfacing, you’ll have the skills to reinforce any garment area needing structure.

Comparing Non-Fusible and Fusible Interfacing

Comparing Non-Fusible and Fusible Interfacing
After choosing the type and weight of interfacing, the next step is to decide on the method of attachment. Non-fusible interfacing requires some sewing for attachment in order to achieve a natural look.

It is important to take your time when positioning it before stitching to avoid any distortions.

On the other hand, fusible interfacing offers the convenience of faster sewing, but it may result in frustrating little bubbles appearing after washing.

For tailored jackets, non-fusible hair canvas is the ideal choice. It provides a polished and professional look. On the other hand, a lightweight fusible interfacing works well for breezy sundresses.

If you prefer washable interfacing, you can explore non-fusible options like sew-in muslin.

Whether you prefer the precision of hand stitching or the speed of using an iron, it is important to choose the right interfacing for your garment.

Sewing Together Matching Fabric Pieces

Sewing Together Matching Fabric Pieces
Once the fabric pieces are stitched, ensuring the seam stitch penetrates deeper than the interfacing attachment stitch, the garment gains stability and structure from the reinforced sections.

With careful attention to seam treatment, pressing techniques, and stitch durability, you can achieve long-lasting structure.

Match fabric grain and patterns precisely before stitching. Use a durable stitch length on your sewing machine when attaching non-woven polyester interfacing to ensure a lasting bond with the fabric’s structure.

Proper fabric attachment and sewing techniques reinforce the garment’s shape. Follow pressing guidelines to maintain the interfacing and fabric bond after stitching.

Thoughtful precision when stitching together interfaced sections achieves garments with enduring structure and shape.

Benefits of Sew-in Interfacing

Benefits of Sew-in Interfacing
Achieve natural garment structure and shape with sew-in interfacing’s versatile support. This traditional tailoring technique provides a professional finish and durable construction for couture quality.

The benefits of sew-in interfacing include:

  • Garment shaping: Contours fabric to your body for a perfect fit.
  • Fabric stability: Supports fabric strength to prevent stretching and sagging.
  • Natural look: Maintains a smooth, crisp appearance over time.
  • Sewing stability: Stabilizes seams during construction for accuracy.

With proper selection, preparation, and application, sew-in interfacing creates clothing with timeless tailoring and fit. Follow precisely while maintaining a light touch for the flexibility needed in quality dressmaking.

Application Steps: Collar Example

Application Steps: Collar Example
As we transition from the benefits of sew-in interfacing, let’s walk through a collar application example. Take charge by cutting your collar pieces and interfacing to match. Wield your power by carefully positioning the interfacing on just one collar side, aligning the raw edges.

Harness your mastery by stitching the collar seams, excluding the neckline for now. Trim the excess interfacing along the stitch line for a clean finish. Stand tall, with the interfacing perfectly secured with your capable hands.

Now stitch the neckline, encasing the raw edges, with the interfacing lending invisible support within.

Liberate your inner artist through clever use of non-fusible interfacing. With each confident stitch, the fabric yields to your vision.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

What types of fabric work best with sew-in interfacing?

For the best results, use tightly woven fabrics like cotton, linen, or wool. Smooth fabrics work well too since the interfacing won’t cling to the weave. Stay away from stretchy knits; sew-in interfacing works best on stable, non-stretch fabrics that hold their shape.

How do I know if my fabric and interfacing are compatible?

Make sure your interfacing fabric content matches your garment. Lightweight fabrics pair well with lightweight interfacing, while medium to heavy fabrics need medium-to-heavy interfacing for support without bulk.

What needle and thread should I use when applying interfacing?

Use a regular sharp needle and polyester thread when applying interfacing. Ensure that the threads match the fabric color for nearly invisible stitching. Aim for a shorter stitch length, such as 2mm. Test different tensions to determine what prevents puckering on the fabric of your project.

How can I prevent the interfacing from making the fabric too stiff?

Choose a lighter weight interfacing or fuse only partial areas to prevent over-stiffening. You could also interface just one layer of a garment section or use a soft, flexible interfacing like knit fusible.

Is it better to interface individual pattern pieces before or after construction?

For best results, interface individual pattern pieces before construction. This allows precise alignment and attachment to each section. Interfacing full garments risks misalignment and creates challenges in trimming seam allowances.


You’ve now gained the know-how to properly apply sew-in interfacing for optimal garment structure. With practice, you’ll adeptly handle this versatile technique, transforming your fabric pieces into supportively interfaced masterpieces.

Though the process takes finesse, have faith that your skills will blossom. Soon you’ll expertly incorporate how to apply sew-in interfacing, elevating your sewing projects with stability and shape.

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Mutasim Sweileh

Mutasim is the founder and editor-in-chief of, a site dedicated to those passionate about crafting. With years of experience and research under his belt, he sought to create a platform where he could share his knowledge and skills with others who shared his interests.