Sew a Blind Hem Stitch: Pro Tips for Perfectly Invisible Hems Every Time (2024)

This site is supported by our readers. We may earn a commission, at no cost to you, if you purchase through links.

You’ll love how a blind hem stitch creates an almost invisible finish on your garments.

To sew a blind hem stitch, start by pressing your fabric’s raw edge and measuring the desired length.

Fold the hem backwards, leaving just 1/8 inch of fabric visible.

If you’re using a machine, select the blind hem setting and stitch along the folded edge while keeping the fabric smooth.

For best results, use a specialized blind hem foot with a metal guide—it’s like having a GPS for your stitches.

The secret to professional-looking hems lies in the preparation and proper tool selection.

What is a Blind Stitch Hem?

You’ll find a blind stitch hem on professional garments where the stitches are nearly invisible from the outside of the fabric.

When you’re ready to give your handmade clothes that polished, store-bought look, this specialized stitch creates a clean hem by hiding the stitches between the folds of your fabric.

When to Use

Every professional-looking garment shares one secret: a perfectly invisible hem.

A blind stitch hem is your go-to technique when you want that high-end, seamless finish on dresses, skirts, and pants.

You’ll reach for this method when working with medium-weight fabrics and garments that need a clean, polished edge.

It’s particularly effective on straight hems that hang freely, allowing the fabric to drape naturally without any visible stitching breaking up the flow.

While it requires a bit more fabric for the wider hem allowance, the professional results make it worth every extra inch.

Vs Ladder Stitch

When deciding between stitching techniques, you’ll find the blind hem stitch and ladder stitch each shine in different situations.

The blind hem stitch requires a sewing machine and special presser foot, creating nearly invisible seams on medium to heavy fabrics with deep hems. It’s your go-to for professional-looking pants, skirts, and dresses.

The ladder stitch, meanwhile, is your best friend for delicate fabrics where machine stitching might be too harsh. Using tiny, carefully placed hand stitches, it creates an equally invisible finish that’s perfect for lightweight materials and detailed work.

Preparing Fabric for a Blind Hem

You’ll need to prep your fabric properly before creating that professional-looking invisible hem you’ve been dreaming about.

Start by deciding your garment’s final length and pressing the raw edge with steam, which will give you the clean foundation you need for a perfect blind hem.

Adjusting Length

Getting your hem length right saves you from redoing your work later.

To start, measure twice and mark your desired finished length.

You’ll need extra fabric for the blind hem – about an inch for hand sewing or slightly more for machine stitching.

If you’re looking for the right thread for your project, consider using specialized blind hem thread.

Test your stitch width on a scrap piece of your fabric first.

This helps you nail the perfect fold that catches just enough material without visible stitches on the right side.

Don’t forget to factor in your fabric’s weight – heavier materials like wool need wider allowances than lighter cottons.

Pressing Edge

Before diving into your blind hem stitch, proper edge pressing creates the foundation for invisible results.

Start by turning up your raw edge 1⁄4 inch for lightweight fabrics, or serge/zigzag bulkier materials to prevent fraying.

Your iron’s steam setting works wonders here – it’ll help create those crisp, professional folds that’ll feed smoothly through your machine.

For thick fabrics, don’t skip the zigzag step; it prevents awkward bunching under your presser foot.

Remember to adjust your seam allowances before pressing, and keep your fabric flat against your pressing board for even heat distribution.

How to Sew a Blind Hem by Machine

You’ll create a professional-looking hem on your sewing machine by using a special blind hem stitch that catches just a thread or two of the fabric.

With your machine’s special blind hem foot and the right settings, you can quickly sew hems that are nearly invisible on the outside of your garment.

Press Folded Hem

A sharp iron and steady hand create the foundation for your perfect blind hem.

Set your iron to the right temperature for your fabric type, then press firmly along the folded edge.

Using a specialized sewing machine foot accessory can also help you achieve a professional finish.

This important step creates a crisp crease that’ll guide your stitching later.

For delicate fabrics, use a press cloth and light steam to avoid leaving marks while achieving that professional finish.

Fold Hem Backwards

The magic of a blind hem comes alive in this important step.

First, take your pressed hem and fold it backwards, revealing just a whisper of fabric – about 1/8 inch (3mm) along the edge.

This tiny lip is your secret weapon for invisible stitching.

Line up this folded edge carefully with your presser foot guide, keeping the fabric smooth and taut as you work.

Select Stitch

Now that your hem is properly folded, let’s set up your machine for perfect blind stitches.

You’ll want to locate the blind hem stitch setting – it looks like a series of straight stitches with occasional zigzags, and is especially useful for creating a clean look on garments like dresses and skirts.

• Set stitch width between 2-3 for medium fabrics
• Choose stitch length around 2-3 for balanced stitches
• Test settings on scrap fabric first

Remember: lighter fabrics need smaller settings, heavier ones need wider.

Stitch Along Hem

With steady hands and careful attention, guide your fabric through the machine as you stitch along the folded hem.

Keep the folded edge snug against the guide while maintaining even stitch tension.

You’ll want to sew slowly here – no rushing through this important step.

Watch for any fabric shifts and adjust your seam allowance as needed.

The key is patience for that perfectly invisible finish.

Tips for Blind Hem Stitching

You’ll find that mastering a blind hem stitch isn’t as tricky as it seems once you’ve got the right tools and techniques at your fingertips.

Whether you’re working with patterned fabrics or trying to match thread colors perfectly, these practical tips will help you create professional-looking hems that are nearly invisible from the outside.

Presser Feet

Mastering blind hem stitches starts with choosing the right presser foot for your machine.

A specialized blind hem foot features a metal guide that keeps your fabric’s folded edge perfectly aligned while you sew.

You’ll notice it has a raised bar that creates just enough slack in the zigzag stitch, letting your hem hang naturally.

A blind hem foot is particularly effective in preventing fabric slippage due to its three grooves on the underside.

When you’re working with heavier fabrics like denim or wool, this sturdy foot makes all the difference – it’ll guide those thick layers smoothly without skipping a beat.

For best results, adjust your foot’s pressure according to your fabric weight.

Patterned Fabrics

Patterned fabrics add an extra layer of excitement to blind hem stitching.

When you’re working with prints or patterns, you’ll need to pay special attention to alignment.

First, fold your hem with the pattern in mind – match those stripes, florals, or geometric designs at the edges.

You’ll want to pin carefully, lining up the pattern repeats before you start stitching.

Don’t rush this process – take time to adjust and realign as needed.

While patterns might seem tricky at first, you’ll get better results by slowing down and double-checking your pattern matching at each step.

Hand Sewing a Blind Hem

You’ll find that hand sewing a blind hem creates truly invisible stitches on both sides of your garment, giving it that professional, refined look you want.

While it takes a bit more time than machine sewing, you’ll get perfect control over each stitch as you work with a single strand of matching thread to create a flawless finish.

Fold Hem

Getting your hem fold just right is the foundation of a perfect blind hem.

Start by measuring and turning up a double-fold hem to your desired length.

Then, carefully fold it back onto the right side, leaving just 1/8 inch of fabric showing.

This precise fold creates the perfect canvas for your invisible stitches and makes sure your final hem looks professional.

Hide Knot

You’ll want to start by hiding your knot inside the fold – it’s your secret weapon for that pro-level invisible finish.

Slide your threaded needle into the fold’s edge, about 1/4 inch deep, and secure your knot.

Then, catch just a whisper of the folded fabric edge.

Unlike machine stitching, this hand-sewn technique gives you perfect control over knot placement and tension.

Small Stitches

Making those tiny stitches is where the magic of an invisible hem really happens.

Start by catching just a thread or two of the folded edge, then move your needle about 1/2 inch to the left.

To master this technique, it’s important to practice with the right tools, such as a sharp hand-sewing needle, to make sure your stitches are precise.

More on Presser Feet

Three essential presser feet can transform your blind hem game.

The standard Blind Hem Foot features a metal guide that keeps fabric perfectly aligned, while the Adjustable version lets you fine-tune stitch depth for different fabrics.

For specialty work, consider the Universal Blind Hem Foot, which handles everything from lightweight silks to heavy denims.

You can also explore online marketplaces like Blind Hem Foot options.

Clean your foot’s guide regularly with a soft brush to prevent fabric snags.

When selecting a foot, match it to your fabric weight – lighter feet for delicate materials, sturdier ones for heavy fabrics.

Start with test stitches on scraps to dial in your settings.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)