How to Fix a Hem That Rolls Up: 5 Expert Tricks for Flawless Hems (2024)

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Fixing a hem that rolls up can be a frustrating experience, but don’t worry, you’re about to master the art of keeping those hems in line.

To fix a hem that rolls up, start by identifying the root cause – is it the fabric type, improper hemming techniques, or uneven tension?

Once you know the culprit, apply targeted techniques to stabilize the hem. This might involve applying fusible interfacing, serging raw edges, or adjusting stitch length and tension.

With a few expert tricks up your sleeve, you’ll be saying goodbye to those pesky rolling hems in no time.

Common Causes of Rolling Hems

If you’ve ever struggled with a hem that stubbornly rolls up, you’re not alone. Understanding the common culprits behind this pesky problem is the first step to achieving flawless, professional-looking hems that stay put.

Fabric Type and Weight

Regarding pesky rolling hems, your fabric’s personality plays a starring role. You might be surprised how much the type and weight of your material can influence that stubborn curl. Let’s unravel this mystery:

• Fiber content: Cotton loves to roll, while polyester behaves
• Weave structure: Loose weaves are more prone to mischief
• Drape characteristics: Flowy fabrics tend to rebel
• Fabric thickness: Thinner materials are the usual suspects
• Material density: Tighter weaves often stay put better

Improper Hemming Techniques

In the case of improper hemming techniques, it’s easy to get it wrong. Rushed stitching, skipped pins, and uneven folding can all lead to a hem that rolls up. Using the incorrect thread or needle size can also cause fabric distortion. To avoid these mistakes, take your time, and focus on even, smooth folds and precise stitching.

Uneven Tension in Stitching

Ever wondered why your hems still roll up despite proper techniques? Uneven tension in stitching might be the culprit! Check your sewing machine’s calibration and consider the thread type, as it can affect fabric distortion. To achieve seam stability, try using a rib stitch or sweater bands, a technique popularized by Elizabeth Zimmerman in Threads Magazine.

Incorrect Seam Allowance

Now that we’ve tackled uneven tension, let’s talk about another common culprit: incorrect seam allowance. If your seam allowance is off, your hem will likely roll up. To avoid this, measure carefully and follow seam allowance rules. Double-check your work to catch any errors, and correct them before proceeding. Your hem (and your sanity) will thank you.

Wearing and Washing Effects

Over time, wearing and washing can wreak havoc on your hems. Fabric pilling, shrinkage factors, fading issues, and fiber breakdown can all contribute to a rolling hem. Don’t underestimate the power of crease setting – a good ironing session can work wonders! To prevent damage, wash your garments inside out and avoid over-drying to minimize stress on the hem.

Preparing Your Garment for Hem Repair

You’re ready to tackle that pesky rolling hem, and the first step is to prep your garment for repair. To start, you’ll need to turn your garment inside out, measure and mark the hem, remove any existing stitches, clean and press the hem area, and choose the right interfacing to get your hem looking flawless again.

Turning the Garment Inside Out

Now that we’ve explored the common causes of rolling hems, it’s time to get hands-on.

Start by turning your garment inside out.

Yes, it’s like inspecting the underbelly of a beast!

This step allows you to access the hem and assess the damage.

Take a moment to appreciate the inner workings of your garment, and get ready to tackle that unruly hem.

Measuring and Marking the Hem

Now that you’ve turned your garment inside out, it’s time to measure and mark the hem. Grab your trusty ruler and marking tools, and get ready for precision. To achieve a flawless hem, consider the following:

• Measure the hem allowance, taking note of the fabric grain and desired hem width.
• Use a ruler to mark the fold line and hem edge.
• Double-check your marks for accuracy, because precision is key.

Removing Existing Stitches

Now that you’ve measured and marked the hem, it’s time to remove those pesky existing stitches. Grab your trusty seam ripper and carefully loosen the threads, working from the underside of the hem. Don’t pull too hard, or you’ll risk unraveling the entire seam. Gently tease out the stitches, and you’ll be ready to start fresh.

Cleaning and Pressing the Hem Area

Now that you’ve removed those pesky stitches, it’s time to give your hem a spa day! Cleaning and pressing the hem area is important for a smooth repair. Before you start, make sure to:

• Remove any stains or dirt with a gentle fabric cleaner
• Set your iron to the right temperature for your fabric type
• Use steam to get those wrinkles out, but don’t scorch the fabric!

Choosing Appropriate Interfacing

Now that you’ve cleaned and pressed the hem area, it’s time to choose the right interfacing. Think of it as the secret ingredient that keeps your hem in check. Consider the fabric type and weight when selecting interfacing weight options. For delicate fabrics, opt for lightweight fusible interfacing, while heavier fabrics can handle thicker, sewn interfacing.

Techniques to Prevent Hem Rolling

As you tackle that frustrating hem that just won’t stay put, it’s time to learn the expert tricks for keeping it in place. With a few simple techniques, such as applying Fusible Interfacing and easing the longer curve into the shorter curve, you can say goodbye to rolling hems and hello to a professional-looking finish.

Applying Fusible Interfacing

Now it’s time to bring in the big guns: fusible interfacing. Choose an interfacing weight that’s suitable for your fabric type. Cut a strip about twice as wide as the hem height, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to fuse it to the wrong side of the hem. This will stabilize the fabric and prevent future rolling.

Using Paper-Release Fusible Web Tape

Now that you’ve applied fusible interfacing, it’s time to add an extra layer of stability with paper-release fusible web tape. This magic tape helps keep your hem in place, preventing those pesky rolls. Simply cut a strip, press it onto the hem, and voilà! Your hem is now rock-solid. Think of it as a temporary adhesive sidekick for your fabric.

Serging Raw Edges

Let’s tame those fraying edges! Serging raw edges is a game-changer for preventing hem rolling. Use a three-thread overlock stitch to finish the seam allowance, and choose a serging thread that matches your fabric. This simple step will give you a professional-looking hem and save you from future frustration. Set your overlock stitch to 3-4 mm for a smooth finish.

Easing Longer Curve Into Shorter Curve

Now that you’ve serged those raw edges, it’s time to tackle the curve conundrum.

Easing the longer curve into the shorter one is an art that requires some finesse.

To master it, focus on aligning the hem curve with the fabric grain.

Using curve-matching techniques is also essential.

Selecting the right interfacing is another crucial step.

This will guarantee a smooth, roll-free hem that’s music to your sewing machine.

Adjusting Stitch Length and Tension

Now that you’ve mastered easing the longer curve into the shorter curve, let’s fine-tune your stitch game! Adjusting stitch length and tension can make or break a hem. For a flawless finish, use a shorter stitch length for lightweight fabrics and a longer one for heavier fabrics. Tweak your tension to avoid puckering or loose stitches.

Sewing Methods for Stable Hems

You’ve prepped your garment and chosen the perfect interfacing.

You’ve mastered techniques to prevent hem rolling.

Now it’s time to sew a stable hem that will withstand the test of time and laundry cycles.

From hand-sewn slip stitches to machine blind hem stitches, we’ll explore the best sewing methods to give your hems a professional finish that’s both functional and beautiful.

Hand-Sewn Slip Stitch Technique

Mastering the hand-sewn slip stitch technique is your ticket to freedom from pesky rolling hems.

With a few simple tools like a sharp needle and matching thread, you’ll be creating nearly invisible stitches in no time.

Try varying your slip stitch pattern to achieve a stronger hold, and don’t be afraid to experiment with different hand sewing tools to find your favorite.

Machine Blind Hem Stitch

Time to tame that rolling hem with the Machine Blind Hem Stitch!

With your trusty Blind Hem Foot, you’ll be gliding through knit fabrics like a pro.

Don’t forget to explore stretch stitch options and twin needle hemming for added flexibility.

As you sew, ease that hemming curve with a gentle touch, and voila – a flawless, professional finish is yours!

Double-Folded Hem With Topstitching

Ever wonder how to create a hem that’s both stylish and stable? Try the double-folded hem with topstitching! Fold your hem allowance twice, then sew in place with a matching topstitching thread. Use a sharp, heavy-duty needle and a walking foot to prevent bunching. This technique prevents fraying while also adding a professional finish to your garment.

Zigzag Stitch for Stretch Fabrics

Now that you’ve mastered the double-folded hem, it’s time to tackle those pesky stretch fabrics.

To keep your hems from rolling up, try using a zigzag stitch. This stitch type allows for flexibility and movement, perfect for knit fabrics.

Pair it with a stretch needle and serger or overlock alternative for a professional finish that will withstand repeated wear and washing.

Decorative Edge Stitching

When mastering the art of hemming, why not add some personality to your garment with decorative edge stitching? By incorporating a few creative stitches, you can elevate your hem from functional to fabulous. Consider these ideas:

• Use a contrasting thread color to create a pop of color
• Experiment with different stitch patterns, like the herringbone or blanket stitch
• Add some subtle texture with a simple running stitch
• Incorporate beads or sequins for a touch of whimsy

Maintaining and Caring for Fixed Hems

Now that you’ve fixed that stubborn rolling hem, it’s time to keep it looking great with some simple care and maintenance tips. By incorporating a few easy habits into your laundry routine, you can prevent those pesky hems from rolling up again and keep your favorite garments looking their best.

Proper Washing and Drying Techniques

To keep your newly fixed hem looking its best, you’ll want to wash and dry it with care. Frequently check the care label to confirm you’re using the right laundry detergent and water temperature for your fabric type. Here’s a quick reference guide to get you started:

Fabric Type	Laundry Detergent	Water Temperature	Dryer Settings
Delicates	Mild detergent	Cold water	Low heat, gentle cycle
Cotton	Regular detergent	Warm water	Medium heat, normal cycle
Synthetics	Gentle detergent	Cold water	Low heat, quick cycle
Wool	Wool-specific detergent	Cold water	Air dry or low heat

Regular Pressing and Steaming

To keep your hems looking sharp, use an iron with temperature control.

This will help you achieve the best results for your specific fabric type. A pressing board that suits your fabric type is also essential.

Steam can be a useful tool in pressing and steaming, but be cautious not to scorch delicate fabrics.

Investing in a fabric pressing tool can help you achieve crisp folds and creases.

Avoiding Excessive Wear on Hem Areas

Now that your hem is fixed, let’s talk about keeping it that way. To avoid excessive wear on hem areas, try these simple tips:

• Avoid over-drying or using high heat when washing and drying
• Hang clothes to dry instead of putting them in the dryer
• Don’t overcrowd your closet to prevent creasing and friction
• Use a fabric shaver to gently remove pilling or fraying

Periodic Inspection and Touch-Ups

You’ve successfully avoided excessive wear on your hem areas – now, it’s time to stay on top of things with periodic inspections and touch-ups. Regularly check your hemlines for signs of fabric wear, inspect the interfacing for any damage, and perform seam stress tests to catch any potential issues before they become major problems.

Storage Tips to Prevent Rolling

You’ve successfully fixed that pesky rolling hem. To keep it in check, proper storage is key. Here are some tips:

• Hang garments with a sturdy clip to prevent hem creasing
• Store items in breathable containers to reduce moisture buildup
• Avoid folding or bunching garments, which can cause hem stress
• Use acid-free tissue paper to cushion folds
• Consider storing garments on a padded or velvet hanger

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)