How to Hem Pants for Beginners: a Step-by-Step Guide to Professional Results (2024)

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Ready to hem pants like a pro, beginner?

First, remove the existing hem carefully with a seam ripper.

Next, try on the pants with your desired shoes and mark the new length.

Iron the pants, measure the hem allowance, and cut off the excess fabric.

Fold the raw edge inward, securing it with pins.

For hand-sewing, use a slip stitch technique with matching thread. Or, thread your machine for a simple straight stitch close to the folded edge.

Press that crisp new hem, and you’re done!

Want to make sure your hemmed pants look tailor-made? Keep going for all the nitty-gritty details.

How to Hem Pants for Beginners?

To hem pants for beginners, first gather materials like fabric scissors, pins, thread, and a sewing machine or needle. Then, try on the pants, mark the desired length, and cut off any excess fabric before folding and pinning the new hem in place to sew by hand or machine.

Gather Materials

To hem pants like a pro, you’ll need a few essentials: a sewing machine (or needle and matching thread for hand-sewing), tailor’s chalk, a ruler, fabric scissors, pins, and an iron with a pressing cloth. A pressing cloth prevents scorching delicate fabrics. You may also want hemming tape if you want a quicker, no-sew solution.

First, gather your supplies. Then, measure the desired length and mark it with chalk or pins. Carefully calculate the hem allowance – usually 1-2 inches is ideal.

With the right tools and a little patience, you’ll have crisp, custom hems in no time. This simple alteration instantly elevates any outfit. So grab your supplies and get ready to level up your sewing skills!

Remove Existing Hem

To remove the existing hem, start by carefully unpicking the stitches using a seam ripper. Work slowly and gently to avoid damaging the fabric, carefully inserting the sharp ripper under the stitches and slicing through the threads.

Using a Seam Ripper

With your seam ripper in hand, you’re ready to bid farewell to that outdated hem. Approach the task with care:

1. Gently insert the sharp seam ripper under the stitches
2. Rock it back and forth, snipping one stitch at a time
3. Patience is key; rushing could damage the fabric

Unpicking Stitches Carefully

With the seam ripper, carefully unpick the stitches securing the existing hem. Take your time, checking the fabric as you remove each thread to avoid damaging it. Once unpicked, gently pull away the excess fabric and fold it neatly. Now you’re ready to measure and mark the desired new hem length.

Determine New Length

To determine the new length, you’ll first need to try on the pants while wearing the shoes you plan to wear with them. With the pants on and your desired shoe choice, have someone mark the length you want the hemmed pants to be, keeping in mind that you’ll need a bit of extra length for the actual hem.

Try on Pants With Shoes

To determine the new length, try on the pants with the shoes you’ll be wearing them with. Shoe choice impacts the ideal pant length, as bulky shoes add height differently than flats.

Sock thickness and whether the pants are for formal wear also matter. Once you have them on with the proper attire, stand up straight and notice where the hems fall. This gives you an initial guide for how much to hem them.

Mark Desired Length

With the pants on and the desired shoes, stand straight while a friend marks your desired length using tailor’s chalk or a fabric pen.

Make sure to mark both legs evenly.

If marking alone, use a full-length mirror.

Once marked, remove the pants and iron the new hemline to set the crease.

This makes it easier to accurately measure and sew the new hem.

Prepare for Hemming

First, iron your pants to remove any wrinkles or creases, as this will make it easier to work with the fabric and achieve a neat hem. Next, measure the desired hem allowance, typically between 1/2 inch to 1 inch depending on your preference, using a ruler or tailor’s chalk to mark the new hemline.

Iron Pants

Before you iron, make sure your ironing board or pressing mat is ready. Use a hem gauge or tailor’s chalk to mark your desired length. Then, carefully iron the pants, pressing the fabric flat. If the existing hem needs removing, use a seam ripper. Ironing prepares the fabric for clean, crisp folds when hemming.

Measure Hem Allowance

Now that the pants are ironed, you’ll need to measure the hem allowance. Grab a ruler or hem gauge – these tools make it easy to get an accurate measurement. Here are some tips:

• For most fabrics, allow 1-2 inches for the hem depth
• Thick fabrics like denim may need 2+ inches for a clean finish
• Use tailors chalk to mark your hem line evenly around each leg

Measuring correctly now saves time and frustration later. With the hem allowance marked, you’re ready to trim the excess fabric.

Cut Excess Fabric

With your pants turned inside out, carefully cut along the marked line to remove the excess fabric. Use sharp fabric scissors and cut all the way around the pant leg, being mindful of cutting a straight, even line.

Turn Pants Inside Out

With the pant fabric now inside out, you’ll have easier access to hem placement. Carefully turn the pants so the legs are fully inverted, being mindful not to disturb your chalk markings. This step prevents bulky seams or uneven lengths on the finished hem. Use the table below as a guide for different hem types:

Hem Type	Fold Width	Stitch Visibility
Blind Hem	1/2 inch	Hidden
Narrow Hem	1/4 inch	Slightly Visible
Wide Hem	1 inch	Visible

Cut Along Marked Line

With the pants turned inside out, carefully cut along the marked line to remove the excess fabric.

Use sharp scissors and cut precisely along the marked line, ensuring both pant legs are trimmed evenly.

Snip all the way around, leaving a raw edge at the desired length.

Be cautious not to cut too much; this raw edge will become your new hem.

Fold and Pin Hem

Once you’ve cut off the excess fabric along the marked line, you’ll need to fold the raw edge toward the wrong side of the pants. Use pins to secure the folded hem in place, spacing them a few inches apart to keep the fabric from shifting as you sew.

Fold Fabric to Wrong Side

Lay the pants flat, wrong side up. Fold the fabric along your marked fold line, forming the hem’s width. For example, fold a 1-inch hem allowance twice, creating a 1/2-inch finished hem width. Consider the fabric type—lighter materials may need a narrower hem. Check your iron’s setting and lightly press the folded edge.

Pin Hem in Place

Once the fabric is folded to the wrong side, grab your pins. Carefully pin the hem in place, ensuring the pins are evenly spaced and perpendicular to the edge. Adjust pin placement as needed to account for fabric thickness and maintain proper hem alignment. With the hem pinned, double-check that both legs are even before proceeding to sewing.

Hand Sewing Hem

Thread your needle with thread that matches the color of your pants. Leave about 6-8 inches of excess thread at the end and tie a knot at the end.

Use the slip stitch technique. Take small stitches through just the inner fold of the hem allowance. Take small stitches through the pant leg. Invisibly hand sew the hem in place.

Thread Needle With Matching Thread

Thread your needle with a double strand of thread that perfectly matches the pants’ color. For hand sewing, choose a sharper needle; for machine stitching, use a universal needle. Adjust the thread tension, ensuring it glides smoothly through the fabric for an even, double-folded hem.

Knot End of Thread

Once your needle is threaded, make a knot at the end for strength. Here’s how:

1. Leave a 4-inch tail
2. Wrap thread tightly around needle tip
3. Pull thread through to form a small loop
4. Pass needle through loop and gently tighten

This double knot guarantees your stitches stay secure. Proper knot tension and thread thickness matching your needle size are key for professional results.

Slip Stitch Technique

With the thread knotted, you’re ready to begin the slip stitch technique. This creates an invisible hem by passing the needle through the hem fold, then into the pant leg fabric — taking tiny stitches in the leg and larger stitches on the folded hem. Here’s how it looks:

Hem Fold	Needle Position	Pant Leg
Large Stitch	Needle Enters	Tiny Stitch
Large Stitch	Needle Exits	Tiny Stitch

Work your way around the entire hem for a professional, discreet finish.

Machine Sewing Hem

You’ll need to thread your sewing machine with a matching thread color and set it to a straight stitch. Position the presser foot close to the folded edge of the hem and sew around the pant leg, keeping the stitching line straight and even.

Thread Sewing Machine

To thread your sewing machine:

1. Place thread spool on holder
2. Guide thread through tension discs
3. Thread needle from front to back
4. Check needle size and thread tension for fabric type

With the machine threaded properly, you’re ready to sew a professional hem.

Straight Stitch Setting

With the machine threaded, set it to a straight stitch. For lightweight fabrics, adjust the stitch length to 2-2.5mm; heavier fabrics need 3-3.5mm. Check the needle size and presser foot pressure match your fabric type. Test the thread tension on a scrap piece first.

Fabric	Needle Size	Stitch Length
Lightweight	8-11	2-2.5mm
Medium	11-14	2.5-3mm
Heavy	14-18	3-3.5mm

Sew Close to Folded Edge

Position your sewing machine’s presser foot close to the folded edge of the hem, using a straight stitch with a stitch length appropriate for the fabric type and thread quality. Carefully guide the pants as you sew around the leg circumference, ensuring an even stitch line close to the folded edge for a professional-looking hem width.

Finishing Touches

Once your hem is sewn, carefully press the finished hem with an iron to give it a crisp, professional appearance. Finally, trim any loose threads and try on the newly hemmed pants to verify the length is perfect before wearing.

Press Finished Hem

After stitching the hem, it’s time to press it. 1) Set up your ironing board with a heat-resistant cover. 2) Use the iron’s steam function for crisp, neat results. 3) Gently press the hemmed area, being careful not to scorch the fabric. A well-pressed hem gives your pants a polished, professional look.

Trim Loose Threads

Use sharp embroidery scissors or a seam ripper to trim any loose threads left behind after stitching the new hem. Check for stray threads on both sides of the fabric, carefully snipping them close to the stitching line. Removing these guarantees a clean, professional finish to your perfectly hemmed pants.

Try on Hemmed Pants

You’ve trimmed all stray threads, so now it’s time to:

1. Slip into your newly hemmed pants
2. Check the length in a mirror
3. Confirm the double fold sits smoothly
4. Verify your desired length preference is achieved

If adjustments are needed, you can always re-sew or consider blind hemming for an invisible finish.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)