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How to Hem Pants With Needle and Thread: a Beginner’s Step-by-Step Guide (2024)

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how to hem pants with needle and threadThis is an extremely useful skill to have for saving money and giving your clothes a tailored finish. In this step-by-step, fully-illustrated guide, learn how to properly hem pants using a needle and thread—from picking out the existing hem to hand-stitching the new one.

With a few basic tools and straightforward techniques, achieve professional-looking results—no experience necessary. Let’s get started!

Key Takeaways

  • Before you stitch, unpick the old hem carefully to avoid damaging the fabric. Patience is key here!
  • When determining the new length, put on the shoes you plan to wear with the pants and measure from the heel to the desired length.
  • To make the hem nearly invisible, opt for a Catch stitch or fell stitch.
  • Secure the thread at the beginning and end with a few small stitches.

How to Hem Pants With Needle and Thread?

To hem pants with a needle and thread, start in a well-lit space with a smooth surface. Gather a quick unpick, scissors, needle, and thread.

Carefully unpick the existing hem without damaging the fabric. Wear the shoes you’ll pair with the pants and mark the desired length. Measure and confirm the new length, then remove the old hem.

Fold the raw edge under and press with an iron, then pin it in place. Hand stitch the hem by securing the thread inside the leg seam and making tiny stitches.

Finish by pressing the new hem for a neat look.

Ready for more details?

Unpicking the Existing Hem

Unpicking the Existing Hem
Find a comfortable workspace that’s well-lit and has a smooth surface.

Have nearby a quick unpick, sharp scissors, a needle, and thread.

First, unpick the existing hem. Thread the needle; as you work, you may snag on anything.

Use the quick pick to very carefully remove old stitches without damaging the fabric.

Work at a slow pace and methodically, making sure all the stitches have been lifted before taking sharp scissors and cutting through them.

Hem picking up on the whole pant leg can be patience-consuming.

As you go along, make sure that the fabric isn’t tangled and that it’s as smooth as possible.

Once the old hem is removed, your pants are ready.

Determining the New Length

Determining the New Length
Now that you’ve removed the existing hem, it’s time to decide on your new length. Start by putting on the shoes that you plan to wear with the pants. This will ensure that you get an accurate measurement. Stand up straight and at the heel, create a marking using a pin for the desired length. Then measure from the top of the pant leg down to this pin.

Now, measure around, working out the new length; this gives you evenly spaced pins. Remember to try it on to check the length. You can also use tailor’s tacking or Tailor’s chalk to mark on the fabric. Once you’re happy with the measured length all around, to keep it from a wonky hem, even it out.

Now you’re ready to prepare the hem confidently.

Preparing the Hem

Preparing the Hem
Now that you have taken out the existing hem, prepare the fabric for the new hem. First, measure and mark all around the pant leg for your desired hem width. This is to give you an even finish off your work.

Carefully fold the raw edge under and press it in place with your iron. Be careful not to scorch or shine the fabric by using an appropriate heat setting according to its kind. Hold the folded hem in place with a few pins as you work. This keeps things tidy and in security as you begin hand stitching.

With the prep work done, you’re ready to start sewing the new hem in place. That means just take it one stitch at a time and try to keep those stitches small, even, and almost invisible.

Hand Stitching the Hem

Hand Stitching the Hem
To hand stitch the hem, start by securing the thread to one of the inside leg seams. Use a needle type suited to your fabric type and a thread weight matching the pants.

For a clean, barely visible hem, opt for a catch stitch or fell stitch. Insert the needle into the folded hem at an angle, grabbing a thread or two from the main fabric. Pull the thread through, ensuring the stitch length is consistent, ideally every 1/4 inch.

Continue stitching around the hem, keeping the fabric taut. If hemming dress pants, maintain precision to achieve a stitch-less look on the outer fabric, making the hem nearly invisible.

Finishing the Hem

Finishing the Hem
Secure the thread as you did in the beginning, using the same thread tension. Take a few small stitches over each other so it doesn’t come undone.

Hang the pants up or lay them flat to even out the pant legs.

Press the new hem in place with an iron. Check your spacing of stitches. They should be even and consistent to look professional.

Repeat on the other leg, keeping in mind the fabric type. Then use a needle size that works with your fabric for strength.

Now step back and view your handiwork: smooth, secure, professional.

Now, get stitching and get ready to enjoy that feeling of satisfaction from a hand-stitched, fully custom hem.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Can you hem pants with needle and thread?

Yes, you can hem pants with a needle and thread. Gather your materials, unpick the existing hem, measure and pin the new length, prepare the hem, and hand stitch using a suitable technique like the slip stitch.

How do you sew a hem with a needle and thread?

Sewing a hem by hand is almost like discovering another hidden talent. Secure with pins, iron flat, and then gently rejoin your fabric with a slip stitch where the hem barely shows.

What is the best stitch for hemming pants by hand?

Slipstitch is ideal for hand-sewing pant hemming. It makes a near-invisible seam of small, equally-spaced stitches that will firmly hold the hem in place. This discreet technique weds a polished and tailored finish.

How do you hem pants so the thread doesn’t show?

Imagine your favorite pants perfectly hemmed. Use a slip stitch for an almost invisible finish. Sew through the fold of the hem, catching just a thread or two from the pants’ main fabric.

What needle size and thread weight should I use for different fabrics?

For lightweight fabrics, use a size 60/8-70/10 beading needle and threads of weight 50- Sharp beading needle size 80/12 and threads of 30-40 weights will work well on heavier fabrics. The proper beading needle and thread will result in a beaded hem that’s smooth and will appear almost invisible.

How do I achieve an invisible hem on delicate or sheer fabrics?

Just like threading a needle through silk, use fine needle and matching silk thread. Employ a blind stitch, taking tiny stitches and leaving minimal trace, ensuring delicate or sheer fabrics appear seamless and professionally finished.

Can I hand-sew hems on stretchy or knit fabrics?

You can hand-sew hems on stretchy or knit fabrics by using a stretch stitch or zigzag stitch. A ballpoint needle helps prevent snagging, and using a stretchy thread maintains the fabric’s elasticity.

How do I secure the thread to prevent the hem from unraveling?

To secure the thread and prevent the hem from unraveling, wrap the thread around your needle three times, pull the needle through to create a knot, and trim the ends. This will hold everything securely in place.

What are some tips for maintaining an even, consistent stitch length?

Use a measuring tape and pins to mark regular intervals along the hemline. Keep your fabric taut, and maintain a steady hand. Practice makes perfect, so go slow and focus on consistent spacing between stitches.

Conclusion

You may be interested to know that nearly 60% of people like doing their own clothing alterations.

References
  • sewingmachinebuffs.com
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Mutasim Sweileh

Mutasim is the founder and editor-in-chief of sewingtrip.com, a site dedicated to those passionate about crafting. With years of experience and research under his belt, he sought to create a platform where he could share his knowledge and skills with others who shared his interests.