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If you do not know how to sew denim or if you get stuck, this detailed guide can help. I’ve taken the time to get images of most of the steps so you can reference any step of the process you want and get started on your denim project.
- Cut the front of the jeans from the black denim wrong sides together.
- Do the same with the back of the jeans.
- Cut the two pieces of waistband (front and back) from the jeans wrong sides together. Pieces out individually while the back piece was being adjusted; the length was cut slightly shorter by 1 ” approximately because of a narrow rear end with wider hips.
- Cut the side front pocket from the fabric. Note: The cartridge piece 3 ” longer for a deeper pocket.
- Cut out the pocket lining of the jeans. Notes: we cut the lining from the same black denim as muslin. They have also extended this pattern piece 3 ” longer for a deeper pocket.
- Cut out the two pieces of waistband interfacing. The fusible side of the interfacing must be up because they will iron the piece to the wrong side of the material. Remarks: because of the weight of the fabric, an intermediate layer suitable for medium to heavy fabrics has . Use stabilize suitable for the weight of the fabric.
- Place the fusible side of the interfacing on the wrong side of the waistband pieces. Cut around the interlining 1/8 ”, then iron the interlining onto the waistband pieces, following the general instructions on the interlining.
- Pin the wrong side of the pocket lining to the right side of the jeans front and sew the pocket lining to the side of the front piece.
- Then baste the edge you just sewn (or trim the seam allowance with ¼ ” and then finish the seam edges as desired).
- Turn the bag liner inward. Press and then sew the side edge of the front that you turned through.
- Align the side front piece with the pocket lining on the wrong side of the front piece and pin in place. put them together, making sure they stay clear of the breech in the front. Sew the outer edge of the pocket lining to the side of the front.
- Process the pocket or finish the edges as desired.
- On the right side of the front trouser section, pin the outer side edge to the garment. Then pin the top edge of the pocket to the garment. Baste across the top edge of the left side of the pocket to the end inside the seam allowance to secure. Next, thread the side of the bag at the end of the bag to the lining of the bag with a 3/8 ” seam.
- On the back of the pants, pin the dart and make sure that both sides of the outer edges where you sew are touching. Sew the arrow from top to bottom almost to the end of the arrow.
When you are nearing the end, raise the presser foot and leave a long enough length to tie the thread twice. Tie off the end. Repeat for the other arrow. Press the arrows towards the side seams.
- Pin the back piece only to the front piece on the inside of the leg, then sew.
- Next, baste the border you just sewn.
- Press the seam on the wrong side of the inside leg .
- Press down the outer seam on the right side of the inner pants.
- Back up the seam of the inner trouser legs.
- Press the seam on the inside of the trouser leg that you just sewn down on the right side.
- Repeat the processes for the other trouser leg, starting with securing the front to the rear trouser leg until this step.
Sew in the other side seam making sure your elastic catches. Then thread the opening you left open to pull the elastic through on the right side.