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If you do not know how to sew denim or if you get stuck, this detailed guide can help. I’ve taken the time to get images of most of the steps so you can reference any step of the process you want and get started on your denim project.
- Cut the front of the jeans from the black denim wrong sides together.
- Do the same with the back of the jeans.
- Cut the two pieces of waistband (front and back) from the jeans wrong sides together. Pieces out individually while the back piece was being adjusted; the length was cut slightly shorter by 1 ” approximately because of a narrow rear end with wider hips.
- Cut the side front pocket from the fabric. Note: The cartridge piece 3 ” longer for a deeper pocket.
- Cut out the pocket lining of the jeans. Notes: we cut the lining from the same black denim as muslin. They have also extended this pattern piece 3 ” longer for a deeper pocket.
- Cut out the two pieces of waistband interfacing. The fusible side of the interfacing must be up because they will iron the piece to the wrong side of the material. Remarks: because of the weight of the fabric, an intermediate layer suitable for medium to heavy fabrics has . Use stabilize suitable for the weight of the fabric.
- Place the fusible side of the interfacing on the wrong side of the waistband pieces. Cut around the interlining 1/8 ”, then iron the interlining onto the waistband pieces, following the general instructions on the interlining.
- Pin the wrong side of the pocket lining to the right side of the jeans front and sew the pocket lining to the side of the front piece.
- Then baste the edge you just sewn (or trim the seam allowance with ¼ ” and then finish the seam edges as desired).
- Turn the bag liner inward. Press and then sew the side edge of the front that you turned through.
- Align the side front piece with the pocket lining on the wrong side of the front piece and pin in place. put them together, making sure they stay clear of the breech in the front. Sew the outer edge of the pocket lining to the side of the front.
- Process the pocket or finish the edges as desired.
- On the right side of the front trouser section, pin the outer side edge to the garment. Then pin the top edge of the pocket to the garment. Baste across the top edge of the left side of the pocket to the end inside the seam allowance to secure. Next, thread the side of the bag at the end of the bag to the lining of the bag with a 3/8 ” seam.
- On the back of the pants, pin the dart and make sure that both sides of the outer edges where you sew are touching. Sew the arrow from top to bottom almost to the end of the arrow.
When you are nearing the end, raise the presser foot and leave a long enough length to tie the thread twice. Tie off the end. Repeat for the other arrow. Press the arrows towards the side seams.
- Pin the back piece only to the front piece on the inside of the leg, then sew.
- Next, baste the border you just sewn.
- Press the seam on the wrong side of the inside leg .
- Press down the outer seam on the right side of the inner pants.
- Back up the seam of the inner trouser legs.
- Press the seam on the inside of the trouser leg that you just sewn down on the right side.
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- Repeat the processes for the other trouser leg, starting with securing the front to the rear trouser leg until this step.
- Turn to the wrong side and pin the two trouser legs together in the crotch area.
- Sew the seam in the crotch area with a reinforced stitch or sew ¼ ” from the original seam allowance close to the garment edge. Work close to the reinforced seam (or cut close to the second line of stitching and overcast as desired).
- Turn the garment over, pin and sew the back to the front. sides.
- Hem the trouser legs. Serge (or zigzag) first the lower legs of the pants at the bottom and turn the seam edge under ¼ ”, then press it. Turn this edge under 1 to 1.5 ” (or desired width) and press down.
- Sew down the seam at the top of the seam you have made, then press the seam.
- Pin and sew the front to the back of the waistband.
- Sew the other side of the waistband together and check that the seams of the waistband match the side seams of the pants, then serve.
- Open the waistband to the wrong side and press the seams down. Remember to use a heat setting low enough to prevent the interfacing from melting. Fold it in half on the right side of the waist and press.
- Open the waistband and pin the wrong side to the right side of the pants so that the sides of the pants fit. waistband on the sides of the pants.
- Check the waistband on the right side of the pants to make sure you have attached all necessary parts (eg at the top of the pocket).).
- Sew only the one edge of the waistband that you pinned and threaded.
- Press the seam down where one edge of the waistband to the pants.
- Fold down the open edge of the waistband to meet the seam that was sewn to check the band and any curves .
- Open the folded waistband and serve the raw top edge.
- Cut the desired length of 1.5 ” elastic (or desired width) to tuck into the back of the pants. Pin one side of the elastic to a side seam above the waistband pleat. Make sure there is enough space between the pleat of the waistband and the bottom seam so that the elastic does not get caught in the hem.
- Place a safety pin on the other end of the elastic so that we can easily pull it to the other end.
- Pin the folded-over waistband on the inside with a seam finish. Make sure the elastic is out of the way, but don’t pin it to the other side seam. Note: If most of the material is not too heavy to sew through, fold 1/4 “ under the edge of the waistband before fastening. I ended up opening the edge of the rolled-up steam I had folded under because it was too bulky to sew through.
- Sew in the side seam after making sure it with the side seam on the outside.
- Sew the waistband to the right on the side of the pants, leaving a gap wide enough at the opposite side seam to pass the elastic through and pin the elastic to the other side of the side seam. Place a pin in the opening you left for easy identification.
- Top stitch the seam on the right side of the pants, excluding the left opening, to pull the elastic through.
- On the inside of the waistband where the opening is, pull the elastic through and make sure it is free from the sewn seam and turned all the way around.
- Pull the elastic about 1 ” past the open side seam. While holding the elastic, pin the waistband back vertically and check that the elastic is secure. Sew down the opening you left to pull the elastic through.
- Turn the pants to the right side and sew in the side seam catching the elastic.
Sew in the other side seam making sure your elastic catches. Then thread the opening you left open to pull the elastic through on the right side.