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Learn Sewing Pockets: Placement, Stabilizer & Catchstitching Tutorial (2024)

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tutorialssewing pocketsYou’ve decided to take on a more advanced sewing project by adding lined pockets.

We’ll walk through every step to perfectly sew pockets with catchstitching. You’ll learn pocket placement strategies to flawlessly integrate pockets into any garment. We’ll review stabilizer options to reinforce your pockets so they hold their shape wash after wash.

I’ll share tips for neatly pressing and turning your completed pockets. My favorite technique – catchstitching – will give your pockets a hand-finished designer look.

For a more advanced pocket, we’ll cover sewing nearly invisible in-seam pockets. I’ll provide marking and cutting guidance so your in-seam pockets are precise.

Follow along to gain the skills and confidence to sew stunning lined pockets on any pattern.

Key Takeaways

  • Mark pocket placement on the pattern before cutting the fabric for even positioning.
  • Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric pieces to avoid mistakes.
  • Interface the pocket bags with fusible tricot for added structure and durability.
  • Finish the pocket edges with lining or French seams for a clean, professional look.

Pocket Placement

Pocket Placement
You’ll wanna mark pocket placement on the pattern before cuttin’ out the fabric to ensure even positioning when sewin’ ’em on later. Carefully transfer the markings from your pattern onto the wrong side of your garment fabric.

Use tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker that’ll easily wash out. For patch pockets, center the shape symmetrically.

Front in-seam pockets can go 9-10 cm below the waistline.

Back pockets traditionally sit lower, around 18 cm down. Mark curved zipper openings and shaped hems before cuttin’ too.

With pocket placement marked ahead of time, you’ll have an easy reference for perfect placement durin’ construction.

Stabilizer

Stabilizer
Attach a stabilizer to the wrong side of the fabric before stitching the pocket’s top edges.

  • Use a lightweight fusible for stable fabrics like denim.
  • Try a medium-weight cutaway stabilizer for sturdier pockets.
  • For lining or silky fabric, choose a soft tear-away stabilizer.
  • Always test stabilizer with your fabric first.

Clipping seam allowances, trimming close, and understitching near the seam edge keeps curved seams flat. Grading allowances reduces bulk. Lightly pressing seam allowances open with the tip of the iron makes smoother pockets.

With careful cutting and pressing, your perfectly shaped and reinforced pocket will hold its form.

Turning and Pressing

Turning and Pressing
After turning right side out, gently press under curved edges for smooth pocket lie. Carefully press the pocket with an iron, using the tip to press curved edges flat. Avoid distorting the shape. Let the pocket cool before handling to set the shape.

For lined pockets, press under the seam allowance on the lining pieces. Pin or baste lining to wrong side of pocket, matching curves and notches. Trim lining seam allowance narrower than pocket. Grade layers for reduced bulk. Press completed pocket well before final construction.

Proper pressing maintains pocket shape for clean finish inside garment. Follow pattern markings precisely. Take time with pressing at each stage. Your handwork will be visible on the inside.

Catchstitching

Catchstitching
Start catchstitching on the pocket body, grabbing fabric as you go. Carefully insert the needle in and out of the fabric, gently pulling the thread taut to secure the hem. Take small stitches, about 1/4 inch long, angling the needle about 30 degrees into the fold.

Keep stitches invisible on the right side by only grabbing a few threads. Work slowly and patiently for best results.

Focus on consistency – evenly spaced, uniform stitches are key.

Avoid pulling too tight or puckering will occur.

Check tension frequently, adjusting as needed.

End off neatly on fold; knot thread and bury tail.

Though tedious, handstitching makes pockets lie flat and look clean. With practice, you’ll gain confidence moving the needle precisely where you want. Relax and find rhythm in the repetition; enjoy creating something beautiful stitch by stitch.

Lining

Lining
You’re smart to line pockets for a polished look. Stats show over 80% of high-end designers finish pockets this way. Pin your cut lining to the inside raw pocket edge, covering the catchstitching and preventing raveling down the line.

Then hand stitch it down, only catching the seam allowance and flap for invisible stitches.

When adding pockets to a coat or other garment, first mark their placement on the pattern about 9-10 cm below the waist. Trace a curved line for the pocket bag shape, adding 1.5 cm seam allowance to each curved edge for a clean finish when turned.

Lastly, consider a French seam to encase the pocket edges, preventing fraying in the long run.

Attach Pocket

Attach Pocket
Pin the pocket to the coat before sewing it on by hand or machine. Carefully align the pocket’s top edge with the marked line on the coat. For curved pockets, pin frequently along the curves to minimize distortion. Compare pocket and opening sizes to adjust depths or angles if needed.

Consider adding a lining or flap inside for a polished look. For patch pockets, machine stitch around the outer edges slowly. For inseam pockets, sew the sides and bottom using a 5/8 seam allowance. Trim seam allowances, clip curves, and press.

Turn the pocket right side out through the opening. Use a catch stitch to invisibly secure the top edge. With practice, you can easily modify pocket shapes, sizes and fabrics to customize any garment.

In-Seam Pockets

In-Seam Pockets
Haven’t you ever wondered how to add sleek in-seam pockets to your sewing projects? Start by tracing the pocket shape from your pattern onto pattern paper, taking care to mark the notches. Position the pocket below the waist darts on your garment front. Choose lightweight, tightly woven fabrics like linen, cotton, or silk.

Interface the pocket bags with fusible tricot for structure. Press seam allowances toward the pocket after stitching. For clean finished edges, consider a French seam with the right sides together. Hand-press each seam before topstitching the pocket closed.

Well-placed in-seam pockets streamline any silhouette for a polished look. Just take your time transferring markings and pressing as you go. With careful pressing and trimming, in-seam pockets will lend a couture feel to your creations.

Mark and Cut

Mark and Cut
After tracing the hand shape, transfer the pocket markings to the pattern for accurate placement.

  • Use a fabric marker or chalk to trace the pocket shape onto your fabric. Mark the opening placement as well.
  • Cut the pocket pieces on the bias for designs with curves to allow ease.
  • Cut a second pocket piece for stability if using lightweight or stretchy fabrics.
  • Transfer all pattern markings and notches to avoid mistakes later.

Careful planning and precise cutting now allows for ease of construction down the road. Marking before cutting ensures proper positioning and prevents headaches. With pockets traced on the fabric, you can sew worry-free knowing everything aligns.

Transfer Details

Transfer Details
After marking the fabric, it’s time to transfer those details to the pattern. Carefully snip the notches and mark the button placements, matching thread color to the fabric hue. When washing, fold pants and sleeves inward to prevent fabric strain. Clip seam allowance corners to reduce bulk before turning pieces right side out.

Moving to the ironing board, press curved edges flat, gently easing fabric rather than tugging. With details transferred to the pattern, you’ll have coordinating buttons, perfect pocket placement, and an understanding of how the garment should be handled for care.

Now it’s time to cut fabric and move on to construction.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

What type of fabric works best for sewing pockets?

For the most luxurious lining you’ll ever feel, opt for 100% cotton to keep your essentials nestled safely in superior softness. But know any tightly woven fabric works well to support your storage needs – just remember to interface for sturdiness.

How wide should the pocket opening be for men’s versus women’s garments?

For men’s garments, a wider pocket opening around 18-20 cm looks proportional and allows easy access. For women’s garments, a narrower opening around 13-15 cm flatters the figure while still fitting most hands.

Keep the opening clean-finished and reinforced for durability. Adjust the size to suit your style and intended use. Wider openings suit loose casualwear, while narrow streamlined pockets complement tailored pieces.

Should I use fusible interfacing or sew-in interfacing for pocket stabilization?

For pockets, I’d recommend fusible interfacing. It’s quicker than sew-ins with similar stabilizing effects. Just don’t go too heavy, or your pockets will be stiff and awkward. A lightweight or medium-weight fusible should support the fabric well without sacrificing drape.

What’s the best way to topstitch the pocket edges so they lay flat?

Carefully topstitch close to the pocket edge after turning right side out. Reduce presser foot pressure so the fabric feeds smoothly. Use a longer stitch length like 3 mm. Go slowly around curves. These tips will help the topstitching lay flat and neatly for a professional finish.

What sewing machine presser feet are most useful for installing pockets?

For even stitching on pocket edges, use a blind hem foot. It allows you to align the fold against the guide while the needle part goes along the outer edge for straight seams. Walking feet equally feed all layers too. Test on scrap layers first and adjust as needed for the pattern.

Conclusion

You’ve gained valuable sewing insights in this pocket tutorial. Did you know over half of clothing contains pockets? Mastering pockets elevates your skills. Whether adding polish with lined versions or crafting in-seam pockets, proper placement and stabilizing delivers professional results.

Moving forward, incorporate these techniques into new projects. Allow the keyword, “tutorialssewing pockets,” to trigger memories of key learnings like catch-stitching. With practice, you’ll achieve perfectly positioned and durable pockets to stylize any garment.

References
  • sewingfromhome.com
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Mutasim Sweileh

Mutasim is the founder and editor-in-chief of sewingtrip.com, a site dedicated to those passionate about crafting. With years of experience and research under his belt, he sought to create a platform where he could share his knowledge and skills with others who shared his interests.